5 Little Monsters: Mermaid Shells Water Bottle Holder

Mermaid Shells Water Bottle Holder

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Summertime always means lots of outings, to the park, zoo, amusement parks, hikes, lot of different places. It is also hot and means you need to have water for everyone. Especially when my kids were littler it seemed like I always ended up carrying everyones water bottles and it got heavy. 


Water bottle holders are a great way to get kids to carry their own water bottles on all of those summer walks and outings. I have a few patterns on my blog for different crocheted water bottle holders and they have worked well for my kids. 


I have been trying to work on using up my yarn stash and as I was looking through it I saw some of the Red Heart Super Saver Stripes that I have in blue, purple, and green shades. I have used these before for mermaid inspired projects and I think they work so well for that, so when I saw them in my stash I thought they would be perfect for a mermaid inspired water bottle holder. 


I typically use cotton yarn for my water bottle holders and for these I used acrylic because I really wanted to use this self-striping yarn. I made 2 versions, one with a mermaid tail and one without. The main part of the holder is made with an open shell stitch pattern. 



How to Crochet a Mermaid Shells Water Bottle Holder


You will need:



Instructions:


Pattern included for versions with and without the tail. Version 1 is with the tail, version 2 without. Scroll down for Version 2.

Version 1- With Tail


You will start by making the fin, which is worked flat, then you will crochet across the top of the fin and begin working the main portion which is worked in the round, last you will make the strap at the top

Turning chains do not count as a stitch unless otherwise indicated


ch 12

Row 1: hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next 7 ch, sc in next 2 ch (8 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 stitches, hdc in next 7 stitches, last stitch will be left unworked (7 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sl st in first stitch, hdc in next 6 stitches, sc in last 2 stitches (6 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in first 2 stitches, hdc in next 5 stitches, last stitch will be left unworked (5 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sl st in first stitch, hdc in next 4 stitches, sc in last 2 stitches (4 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 6: ch 8

Row 7: turn, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 2 ch (4 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 8: ch 1, sc in first 2 stitches, hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in last stitch (5 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 9: ch 2, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 4 stitches, sc in last 2 stitches (6 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 10: ch 1, sc in first 2 stitches, hdc in next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in last stitch (7 hdc, 2 sc)

Row 11: ch 2, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 6 stitches, sc in last 2 stitches (8 hdc, 2 sc)

The tail is now finished and to continue you will work across the top of the fin (the sc side)

Row 12: ch 1, turn your fin so that you can work into the sides of the sc at the end of each row, there are 10 rows total each ending in a sc so you will be working into the sides of each of those 10 stitches, sc2tog 5 times (5 sc)

Round 1: ch 2, working in front loops only dc in each stitch, turn so that you can work into the back loops of those same stitches and dc in each unworked loop, sl st to first dc to join (10 dc)

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st, sl st to first sc to join (20 dc)

Round 3: ch 2, [2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (30 dc)

Round 4: ch 2, dc in each st, sl st to first dc to join (30 dc)

Round 5: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 6: starting in ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, sc in ch 3 space, [5 dc in ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 sp] 4 times, 2 dc in same ch sp as starting stitches, sl st to beginning ch 3 to join (5 shells)

Round 7: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (center dc of shell), ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 8: starting in ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, sc in ch 3 space, [5 dc in ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 sp] 4 times, 2 dc in same ch sp as starting stitches, sl st to beginning ch 3 to join (5 shells)

Round 9: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (center dc of shell), ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 10: starting in ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, sc in ch 3 space, [5 dc in ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 sp] 4 times, 2 dc in same ch sp as starting stitches, sl st to beginning ch 3 to join (5 shells)

Round 11: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (center dc of shell), ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 12: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, [sk next st, 3 dc in ch 3 space, sk next st, 3 dc in ch 1 space] repeat around ending with 3 dc in the last ch 3 space

Strap:


continuing where you ended round 12, make strap as many rows as you need to get the length you want, remember there will be some stretch once the weight of the water bottle is added

Row 1: ch 1, sc in next 2 sts (2 sc)

Row 2-95: ch 1, turn, sc across (2 sc)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing, stitch the end of the strap to the top of the bag directly opposite the beginning of the strap, weave in ends

Version 2- Without Tail

Begin with a magic ring

Round 1: in mr, ch 2, 10 dc, sl st to first dc to join (10 dc)

Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st, sl st to first sc to join (20 dc)

Round 3: ch 2, [2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st] repeat around, sl st to first dc to join (30 dc)

Round 4: ch 2, dc in each st, sl st to first dc to join (30 dc)

Round 5: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 6: starting in ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, sc in ch 3 space, [5 dc in ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 sp] 4 times, 2 dc in same ch sp as starting stitches, sl st to beginning ch 3 to join (5 shells)

Round 7: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (center dc of shell), ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 8: starting in ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, sc in ch 3 space, [5 dc in ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 sp] 4 times, 2 dc in same ch sp as starting stitches, sl st to beginning ch 3 to join (5 shells)

Round 9: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (center dc of shell), ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 10: starting in ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, sc in ch 3 space, [5 dc in ch 1 space, sc in ch 3 sp] 4 times, 2 dc in same ch sp as starting stitches, sl st to beginning ch 3 to join (5 shells)

Round 11: ch 4 (counts as first dc, ch 1), dc in same st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, [(dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (center dc of shell), ch 3, sk 5 sts] repeat around, sl st into first ch sp (5 v-stitches, 5 ch 3 spaces)

Round 12: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same ch sp, [sk next st, 3 dc in ch 3 space, sk next st, 3 dc in ch 1 space] repeat around ending with 3 dc in the last ch 3 space

Strap:


continuing where you ended round 12, make strap as many rows as you need to get the length you want, remember there will be some stretch once the weight of the water bottle is added

Row 1: ch 1, sc in next 2 sts (2 sc)

Row 2-95: ch 1, turn, sc across (2 sc)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing, stitch the end of the strap to the top of the bag directly opposite the beginning of the strap, weave in ends



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