5 Little Monsters: Trinity Stitch Pumpkins - 2 ways

Trinity Stitch Pumpkins - 2 ways

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One of my favorite fall crochet projects is crocheted pumpkins. I love making them with different stitches to give them interesting texture. It kind of gives me a sweater type vibe, cozy and perfect for cool fall days. I have lots of crocheted pumpkins on my blog and they use a variety of different stitches, some worked in rows and others in the round. Both ways are very simple and are easy to adjust to make different sizes. 


For these pumpkins I used the Trinity Stitch. I have used this stitch a few times in different projects and a it is a stitch I really love. It is made using single crochet stitches so it isn't the quickest stitch to work up, but I love the texture it gives and one thing that is kind of unique and fun about this stitch is how different it looks when worked flat vs. in the round. Because of that I decided that I wanted to make this pumpkin in both ways. 


The first pumpkin is made by working short rows back and forth to make a long rectangle. You can make your rectangle as large or small as you want. More stitches in each row makes a taller pumpkin, few stitches a shorter pumpkin. More rows will make a fatter pumpkin and fewer rows will make a thinner pumpkin. You could easily make a variety of pumpkin shapes by just switching up the size of the rectangles you start with. The stitches in this version give almost a ribbed texture which works well with the pumpkin shape. To turn your rectangle into a pumpkin you will just seam up the side to make a tube, then cinch up the top and bottom to turn it into a pumpkin. 


The second version, the smaller pumpkin in my pictures, is made by working the same stitch in but in the round. Because you are not turning after each row this gives the stitch a very different look. It kind of looks like stacks of little clusters or puffs. Instead of a rectangle for this one you end up with a tube shape, so you don't have to stitch up the seam, just cinch up the top and bottom. 


I used Red Heart Super Saver Ombre in Hot Sauce which is a red orange ombre color. I thought maybe it would give variation in the color of each pumpkin, but if I am honest I think I would have preferred just a solid color. You can use whatever color you want to do, solid, ombre, variegated, or anything else in a medium weight. You could even play around with different yarn weights, it will just change up the size of the pumpkins and you will need to be sure to use the right hook for your yarn weight.  


I love that this stitch gives 2 such different styles and textures just depending on how you work it up. I can't decide which version I like best. 




How to Crochet Trinity Stitch Pumpkins 2 Ways

You will need:


  • Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver Ombre in Hot Sauce)
  • H Crochet Hook (5 mm)
  • Stuffing 
  • Yarn Needle
  • Cinnamon Stitch, Small Stick, or Short Dowel

Instructions:


The sizes of the sample pumpkins, made as written in the pattern, are:

Larger Pumpkin/Rows Pumpkin- about 6" in diameter and 4" tall
Smaller Pumpkin/Rounds Pumpkin- 6" in diameter and 3" tall

To change the size of the pumpkins you will need to adjust the number of stitches per row/round as well as the number of rows/rounds you work. 

For the rows pumpkin adjust as follows:
  • Begin with an even number of stitches (sample made starting with a ch of 30) you need a multiple of 2 +1 as a base for the stitches,  +1 for turning so in other words- any even number. Making this number bigger will make a taller pumpkin, making this number smaller will make a shorter pumpkin. Keep in mind that the top and bottom edges will be cinched in so the pumpkin will not be as tall as the chain. 
  • You can work as many rows back and forth as you would like to make the size pumpkin you want. The pattern is written with 41 rows. More rows will make a fatter pumpkin, fewer rows will make a thinner pumpkin. 
For the rounds pumpkin adjust as follows:
  • Begin with a chain that is a multiple of 2 (sample made with a starting ch of 40), this will be joined in a circle and you will work in an even number of stitches around. Starting with a shorter chain will give you a thinner pumpkin, a longer chain will give you a fatter pumpkin. 
  • You can work as many rounds  as you would like to make the size pumpkin you want. The pattern is written with 14 rounds. More rounds will make a taller pumpkin, fewer rows will make a shorter pumpkin. 

The main stitch for this pattern is a single crochet 3 together (sc3tog)

sc3tog- insert your hook in the same stitch as the previous stitch, pull up a loop, insert in the next stitch, pull up a loop, insert in the next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all stitches on hook

Rows Pumpkin

ch 30

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, [sc3tog starting in same stitch as last stitch was worked, ch 1] repeat to the end, sc in last stitch (the last leg of your last sc3tog should have ended in the last stitch and the last sc is worked in the same stitch) 

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first stitch, [sc3tog starting in same stitch as last stitch was worked, ch 1] repeat to the end, sc in last stitch

Row 3-41 (or number of rows desired): repeat row 2

When your rectangle has reached the desired size finish off and cut yarn, leaving a very long tail for sewing. 

Use the tail to stitch the short ends together, make a couple of stitches to secure (so that it doesn't pull in the next step.

Stitch a running stitch around one edge of the tube you just made and pull to cinch closed. It may not close fully but you can make a couple of stitches across the opening to pull it together. 

You can either carry that same yarn up to the top edge (just be careful not to pull it tight because it will pull the edges together in a lopsided way) or use a new piece of yarn, work a running stitch around the top opening. 

Add stuffing to the pumpkin and pull the opening closed. This time you want to leave a small hole big enough to insert your stem. Stitch in place to secure, then push your needle through the center out the bottom then back up to the top, repeat if desired. This will pull the centers in on each other and give more of a pumpkin shape instead of just a ball. Finish off and weave or tuck in ends. 

Insert a cinnamon stick or other stem into the hole on the top


Rounds Pumpkin 


Ch 40, join to first ch to make a large ring

Round 1: ch 1, sc3tog, [ch 1, sc3tog starting in the same stitch as the last leg of the previous sc3tog was worked in] repeat around until one stitch remaining, ch 1, sc3tog starting in same stitch as last leg of previous stitch working middle leg in last unworked stitch then working the last leg in the same stitch as the first stitch at the beginning of the round, ch 1, sl st to first sc3tog to join (20 sc3tog, 20 ch)

Rounds 2-14 (or number of rounds desired): repeat round 1

Finish off and cut yarn, leaving a long tail

Weave around edge, pull to cinch the bottom closed, knot ends and pull to inside of the pumpkin

You can either carry that same yarn up to the top edge (just be careful not to pull it tight because it will pull the edges together in a lopsided way) or use a new piece of yarn, work a running stitch around the top opening. 

Add stuffing to the pumpkin and pull the opening closed. This time you want to leave a small hole big enough to insert your stem. Stitch in place to secure, then push your needle through the center out the bottom then back up to the top, repeat if desired. This will pull the centers in on each other and give more of a pumpkin shape instead of just a ball. Finish off and weave or tuck in ends. 

Insert a cinnamon stick or other stem into the hole on the top.



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